Excerpt from 'How Clean is Your House'

Excerpt from 'How Clean is Your House'

By Kim Woodburn and Aggie MacKenzie

Getting started

Kim and Aggie's essential cleaning kit

A glance at the shelves of cleaning materials in any large store will tell you that there is a breathtaking array of cleaning creams, powders, polishes, liquids, cloths, mops and tablets available. Of course you don't need them all! Some are time-saving, but buying so many products is hardly economical—we'll show you other cleaning methods that avoid buying a special product that does only one job. However, every home should have a basic cleaning kit. All the homes we visited contained cleaning materials—they just weren't being used. Their purchase was a sign of the best intentions, but then they had been buried at the back of a cupboard—often covered in grease or dust!

Name a product and you can be sure that we have tried it. Here is a list of the supplies we never set off without when we take to the road to clean up the ?lthiest homes. These will work in your home too—even if you have a lot less grime.

Kim

I've got a tried and tested collection of cleaning materials that I always turn to whenever there's a job to be done. I like a nice collection of dusters, cloths and mops—we all have our favorites, don't we dear? But these work for me, so I have no hesitation recommending them to you.

Washing and scrubbing

Dishwashing liquid—don't economize— the concentrated stuff is best. Good for your dishes, your floors, your walls—you name it, dishwashing liquid can often do it. Hot soapy water is a clear winner for hundreds of tasks.

Scouring powders—I swear by a strong abrasive powder with coarse grit particles for the toughest of cleaning jobs. You can't use it on every surface—especially not plastic, because you'll soon rub all the shine off. But scouring powder is perfect for scrubbing inside the toilet bowl, for example.

Cream cleanser—this is good for more delicate surfaces that won't take a coarse grit powder, such as plastic baths. It's good on grease and very useful in the kitchen and bathroom.

Steel-wool soap pads—or just the plain wire or nylon pads for jobs where you don't want huge amounts of soap swishing about, just a good bit of elbow grease. They can be used carefully on some stoves to remove spills on the stove top, and inside the oven too. Roasting pans are a bother, aren't they? Good for a few months, then you get a buildup of brown spots.

Baking soda—a good old-fashioned cleaning product, with a whole host of uses. Great for washing down surfaces and especially good at cutting through grease. It is also a very powerful weapon in the battle against slimy and smelly drains. Used regularly it can save you an expensive call to a specialist drain-cleaning company. Mix with a small amount of very hot water and pour down the sink, or directly into the outside drain to help keep them clear.

Bleach—don't overuse bleach, it's really not necessary. Warm soapy water will often do, but a little dash of bleach in your bucket of soapy water will make some tough jobs easier.

Distilled clear vinegar—another wonderful traditional remedy my mother used which is just as good today. Use it for removing limescale—the mineral and salt deposits left by hard water—but don't use it on plated surfaces or it will remove the plating too. Wash off thoroughly after use. It's how my mother cleaned ?lthy windows—one part vinegar, nine parts water. But the solution needs to be rubbed off ?rmly with old newspaper or it can leave smears. A little vinegar is also good for pet urine on carpet, and it deters pets from returning to the same spot.

Bath soap—wonderful, but not in guest bathrooms. Who wants to use someone else's old soap? Liquid soap dispensers are best for guests. Rub a damp facecloth over soap to tackle all manner of marks—such as lipstick on a shirt collar or a cotton sweater. Don't rub heavily or you'll spoil the weave.

Liquid carpet shampoo spray—I swear by this for small marks, but use it as soon as they appear. Test a small hidden area ?rst to ensure it won't spoil the carpet color, and leave for at least half an hour. For small marks just rub your ?ngernail along with the pile and tease through the soap. Bang with a damp cloth, followed by a dry cloth. Dirty carpets should be professionally cleaned, and don't be stingy with expensive rugs—take them to a specialist cleaner. If you could afford to buy the rugs you can afford to have them cleaned.

Dishwasher liquid—not only good in the dishwasher, but also for cleaning plastic baths. Don't let dirt build up or you may mark the plastic permanently.

Powdered laundry detergent (with enzymes)—not only is this great in your washing machine, it's also very good for cleaning a dirty bath. Fill the bath with warm water, add a couple of cups of powder, and leave to soak overnight. (You can even add men's dirty white shirts and do two jobs at once.) Rinse and buff dry.

Fabric softener—a wonderful invention. Choose your favorite fragrance. It's very good on natural ?bers, but not on your bathing suits; they really don't like it.

Denture-cleaning tablets—these will clean more than just your false teeth! Pop one down the loo for a sparkling bowl, or even dissolve a couple in the kettle overnight. They will loosen the limescale and you can wipe it off with a paper towel in the morning. Rinse after use—who wants to drink tea made with denture tablets?

Polishing

Spray furniture polish—you can get some lovely fragrances. Don't overuse, though, or your furniture will get polishbound. Once a month is plenty, the rest of the time dust with a very slightly damp duster, wrung out as tight as you can. Finally, buff with a dry duster.

Beeswax polish—wonderful on rough and unpolished woods, such as pine tables. You can see when wood is gasping for some nourishment. Rub it in well and buff up with a lint-free cloth—men's old T-shirts (washed, of course, and not the mesh ones) are perfect.

Cream pads for silver—but use gloves. A silver cloth is good, but expensive. A good tip for cleaning silver items, not plate, mind, but good for your jewelry. Line a plastic bowl with aluminum foil, shiny side up, and add a handful of baking soda and some very hot water. Put your silver in for 1–5 minutes—watch the dirt jump to the foil and the silver emerge sparkling. Rinse thoroughly and buff with a dry cloth.

Spray lubricant (WD40)—often found in the garage, but useful all around the home. Great for getting paint off windows—give a quick spray to loosen it, then apply a plastic scraper and elbow grease. Ensure the room is well ventilated.

Gloves, mops, cloths and other useful weapons in the ?ght against grime

Gloves—I like black rubber gloves best, and I love the novelty designs you can get now. Buy them a size too big; they're much more comfortable. You can even wear a pair of cotton gloves inside, soaked with hand cream to keep your hands moisturized and soft all day.

Toothbrushes—these are invaluable. Save every one! Never throw your old ones away, simply put them to a new use. They are perfect for getting into any little crevice that your ?ngers won't ?t, or wouldn't want to.

Cotton swabs—these are similarly useful, especially for delicate items like computer keyboards.

Toothpicks—if you're as fussy as I am, these are perfect for picking dirt out of screw heads.

String mops—my chosen weapon for dirty floors. They're tough, absorb a lot of water and bleach beautifully. You can wring them out really tight to stop the floor from getting too wet. Change the water frequently, and never leave a mop head dirty. Wash it out thoroughly, and never leave it sitting in a bucket—oh, the stink—stand it head upright to dry.

Dusters and rags—why do they make dusters in such bright colors? They are only any good when the dye is washed out. Buy a dozen the same color and put them straight into the washing machine or soak them. Go through the agony—it's worth it. Have a good supply of old white towels and rags (keep your old T-shirts)—not colored, mind, you don't want to transfer the dye to something you're cleaning, especially a carpet.

Chamois leathers—my ?rst choice for polishing windows after washing with a soapy solution. They work on the small panes beautifully, and well cared for they last for years. Vacuum cleaner—I like an upright. Why break your back? You can get hose attachments, too, for reaching right up to ceilings and the brushes work wonders on upholstery and dusty furniture. Better to pick the dust up than swish it around. I like the bagless cleaners with the clear drums—watching all that dirt spin around is free entertainment. At first you think to yourself, this room isn't so dirty, and then you are amazed just how much dust you've managed to ?nd when you see it spinning around. When I go away I like to vacuum myself out of the front door, so it's all nice and fresh for my return.

I have quite a short list. I don't like the clutter of having cupboards full of stuff when just a few products can tackle so many jobs. I also worry about the effects on the environment of using so many unnecessary chemicals. But these are the things I do like.

Washing and scrubbing

Dishwashing liquid—I love this, especially the concentrated stuff. It can do so many jobs, even removing all sorts of stains from kids' clothes. Squirt some onto the stain, grab the surrounding fabric with both hands, and rub well, then stuff into the washing machine. Dishwashing liquid is good for so many household surfaces, and a little really does go a long way.

Cream cleanser—this has an abrasive action. I prefer it to the powder scourers, because I worry about breathing in the airborne particles.

Bleach—I prefer the really thick stuff, which is less likely to splash on your clothes and ruin them. I've had too many accidents! I like the way it clings to the sides of the loo rather than disappearing straight down the bowl.

Baking soda—a good alternative to detergent if you suffer from allergies or are sensitive to chemicals. It's great on stainless steel, it's good for sinks, it's even good sprinkled into smelly sneakers and it's kind to the environment. My homemade scouring mix is a winner: add baking soda to bleach to form a paste. This is very good at removing soap scum from shower tiles when rubbed on with a nylon pad (in general you should not mix cleaning products, as they can cause dangerous gases and reactions, but this tip, like all our tips, is tried and tested).

Washing soda—this is great at removing grease. I ?ll my sink with it, then pour over a kettle of boiling water and have a little scrub with a bottle brush to get rid of any grimy bits. It's good down the drain once a month too, to stop buildup of grease, which can block drains. Laundry detergent—I prefer the powder to the tablets, which are expensive and so ?ddly to open. It's easier to gauge a good scoop of powder to the level of dirt and size of the load. Here's my top tip for cleaning your roasting pans using detergent. No need to scrub. Sprinkle in a cupful of powder, add warm water, and leave to soak for an hour or so. If it's really bad, put the roasting pan, plus solution, on the stove top, heat gently for about 10 minutes, then wash as normal.

Trigger cleaning sprays—I like these in the bathroom because they are quick and easy to use. I apply the spray to the bath and basin and leave it to work its magic while I clean the tiles. Distilled clear vinegar—Kim and I never leave for a job without this. It's good on limescale, for wiping down your shower door, and it's great on mirrors. After washing windows with a warm soapy water solution, buff up with vinegar and kitchen towel.

Beeswax polish—I don't like spray polishes at all; again, I worry about ingesting those airborne particles. I prefer creams or solid blocks. These are great on wood—on with one cloth, buff with another. Once a month is plenty—you don't want your lovely furniture to get polishbound.

Salt and lemon juice—three parts salt to one part lemon juice. This works really well on copper and brass. Rinse and buff dry with a soft cloth.

Spray lubricant (WD40)—this is very good at removing the stickers your kids plant all over their bedroom doors. Peel off the top layer, then spray the residue, wipe with a kitchen towel and hey, presto, it's gone (if the stickers have been in place a long time you might need a plastic scraper to ease the way).

Gloves, cloths and other useful weapons in the ?ght against grime

Gloves—keep separate gloves for bathroom and kitchen to prevent transfer of bacteria. Kim and I detest toilet brushes, so gloves on and down the bowl is the only real way to clean. After all, who wants a smelly brush sitting around?

Dishcloths—the only kind for me are those cotton ones with red stitched edging. They should be washed every day—either in the washing machine with the white wash, or in the dishwasher with the plates. Alternatively, at the end of the day you can soak them in warm soapy water with a few drops of bleach added—good for the sink, too.

Tea towels—I prefer linen glass cloths. They should be ironed and folded. A hot iron also helps to sterilize them. Always use a separate hand towel in the kitchen.

Lambswool dusters—I like these very much. They act like a magnet to dust, so you know it's not just being flicked around the room.

Toothbrushes—these are excellent for scrubbing dirty grouting between tiles. One part bleach, one part water, about once every couple of months, will keep everything sparkling white.

Paint scrapers—I like to use these on the glass of the oven door. If yours is removable glass like mine, unscrew it, give it a good soak in hot soapy water, and then use the scraper to shift any stuck-on grease marks. It's also a good idea every so often to pull out freestanding kitchen appliances and get to work with the scraper on any little bits of food debris clinging to the sides of the units and appliances. It comes off really quickly!

Vacuum cleaner—I like a bagless cylinder model, as I am quite short and ?nd it much easier to carry upstairs than an upright. I'm not keen on bags, as they are expensive and wasteful and a pain to buy.

Polishes

Beeswax polish—I don't like spray polishes at all; again, I worry about ingesting those airborne particles. I prefer creams or solid blocks. These are great on wood—on with one cloth, buff with another. Once a month is plenty—you don't want your lovely furniture to get polishbound.

Salt and lemon juice—three parts salt to one part lemon juice. This works really well on copper and brass. Rinse and buff dry with a soft cloth.

Spray lubricant (WD40)—this is very good at removing the stickers your kids plant all over their bedroom doors. Peel off the top layer, then spray the residue, wipe with a kitchen towel and hey, presto, it's gone (if the stickers have been in place a long time you might need a plastic scraper to ease the way).

If you spend

two evenings cleaning, that's still ?ve nights off

Grime scene pests

DIRT DETECTIVE AGGIE'S MOST UNWANTED GRIME FILE

"There is no need to do any housework at all. After the ?rst four years the dirt doesn't get any worse. It is simply a matter of not losing one's nerve." —Quentin Crisp

We lost count of the number of people who repeated this famous quote to us when we visited their ?lthy, dirty homes.

The truth is that if you are a ?lth offender there are plenty of pests that will very happily come and live with you in your squalor. They spread bacteria and germs that can cause poisoning, allergies and illness— such as salmonella, asthma and dysentery.

Using my dirt detective sample bags and swabs I apprehended plenty of villains lurking in the grime scenes we inspected. If you ?nd your home overrun with any of these pests you know it's time to get cleaning.

Dust mites

Modern, warm, humid homes provide ideal conditions for dust mites. They especially love living in our beds, which are warm and moist.

They feed on flakes of human skin— of we each shed about 1 gram every day. They go to the toilet often and their feces contain harmful enzymes.

Up to 30% of the population suffers from asthma, eczema, bronchitis or itchy eyes caused by dust mite feces.

Fortunately dust mites can only be seen under the microscope—if you could see the ugly brutes with the naked eye you'd never go to bed.

To keep the dust mite population under control in your home, you'll need to clean.

Vacuum regularly to remove dust mite food—your skin flakes.

Dust with damp cloths to avoid making dust airborne.

Air your house and bed daily.

Launder your sheets once a week in a 140°F wash. Wash your duvet and pillows regularly.

Turn your mattress periodically and replace at the end of the guarantee.

Flies

These really are drawn to ?lth offenders. They love living in a dump. They're not fussy where or what they land in before touching down on your food.

They have to liquefy solid food with their saliva before they can eat it.

Flies spread bacteria that cause diarrhea, dysentery, typhoid and cholera. It has been calculated they carry up to 2 million bacteria on their bodies.

Flies are fast breeders. Females lay several batches of 150 eggs at a time. The eggs hatch in 24 hours, and larvae feed on rotting organic matter.

Flies don't like clean homes.

Deny them access to food—don't leave scraps out anywhere.

Don't allow access to rotting fruit or vegetables.

Don't leave defrosting food uncovered.

Use trash cans with tight-?tting lids—flies like to lay their eggs in rubbish.

Wipe down surfaces with clean cloths before food preparation.

Rodents (rats and mice)

Rodents play host to parasites that spread diseases such as salmonella, meningitis, encephalitis and tapeworms. In the 14th century rats spread bubonic plague, killing half the population of Europe.

Mice will eat anything and can survive on the smallest scraps of food.

Mice are incontinent; they urinate constantly and produce around 80 droppings a day. Rats' urine contains microorganisms that cause serious illness in humans.

Mice breed very quickly. One pair and their progeny can produce 200 offspring a year. Rodents are best controlled by good housekeeping.

Nonrefrigerated food should be stored in closed jars or sealed plastic storage bins. Scraps of food dropped on floors and surfaces must be cleaned up.

Pet-food bowls should be emptied and cleaned after eating.

Rodent infestations are hard to shift and require professional help.

Fleas and bed bugs

These pests bite! They have piercing, sucking mouthparts. They can cause medical problems—flea allergy, tapeworms and anemia.

Fleas are excellent jumpers, leaping up to 18 inches vertically and 12 inches horizontally.

Normally after a blood meal the female flea can lay 20 eggs, which hatch in two days.

Vacuum regularly—this removes eggs and fleas. Put a pet flea collar in the vacuum cleaner bag, and change the bag regularly.

Treat pets, and the home if necessary, with regulatory products that stop flea larvae from becoming adults.

Avoid using secondhand bedding and mattresses, which may contain bed bugs. Secondhand furniture may also harbor fleas and bugs.

There are two main types: carpet beetles and clothes moths. Females lay up to 100 eggs, which can hatch in eight days.

If you have a problem with these, it will usually indicate a dirty home.

Textile pests feed on animal ?bers like wool, fur, feathers and silk.

It's the larvae that do the munching. They like their textiles dirty; they need the grime, sweat and urine too. They leave a trail of destruction as they munch through carpets, clothes, rugs and upholstery.

Regular vacuuming and laundering are the best weapons—removing their food, e.g., hair, lint and crumbs, as well as larvae and eggs.

Steam-cleaning carpets and rugs will help kill carpet beetle larvae.

Don't leave dirty clothes to fester in cupboards. Launder ?rst.

When storing clothes ensure they are freshly laundered and pack with mothballs or cinnamon sticks and cloves to deter moths.

Pantry pests

These are mainly beetles that live on stored foods with low moisture content, such as flour, biscuits, cereals, nuts, and dried pasta.

They lay their eggs in the food. When the larvae hatch they tunnel through the food, build a cocoon and pupate. They can penetrate paper, cardboard and cellophane packaging.

Never leave open packets in your cupboards. Keep foods in airtight glass, metal or heavy plastic containers. Use older batches of food ?rst. Don't buy more food than you can reasonably use.

Vacuum the corners of cupboards to remove insect eggs and webbing, then wipe and dry. Check drawers where you keep baking utensils.

Textile pests

There are two main types: carpet beetles and clothes moths. Females lay up to 100 eggs, which can hatch in eight days.

If you have a problem with these, it will usually indicate a dirty home.

Textile pests feed on animal ?bers like wool, fur, feathers and silk.

It's the larvae that do the munching. They like their textiles dirty; they need the grime, sweat and urine too. They leave a trail of destruction as they munch through carpets, clothes, rugs and upholstery.

Regular vacuuming and laundering are the best weapons—removing their food, e.g., hair, lint and crumbs, as well as larvae and eggs.

Steam-cleaning carpets and rugs will help kill carpet beetle larvae.

Don't leave dirty clothes to fester in cupboards. Launder ?rst.

When storing clothes ensure they are freshly laundered and pack with mothballs or cinnamon sticks and cloves to deter moths.

Now that you've discovered just what you can end up sharing your home with, it's time to start cleaning! How clean is your routine?

Until well past the middle of the last century housework was a daily routine that dictated what jobs were done on each day of the week. Monday was washday, and women would all race to get their washing onto the line. Chimneys were still in use then, and washing left to dry outside would often become soiled with coal smuts and would have to be done again. Ironing would be done on Tuesday, and during the evening clothes would be mended and socks darned. On the other days women would clean. Every day the front step would be scrubbed and the water sloshed across the pavement to keep the dirt from coming in. Your neighbors expected all the water to be "joined up," otherwise they would gossip about your slovenly ways. Shopping would be reserved for the day the wages were brought home in a brown waxy envelope, usually Friday or Saturday. Baking would be done on Saturday, and Sunday was a day of rest, although there would usually be a roast dinner to prepare and cook.

Spring-cleaning was necessary because people heated their homes with open coal ?res, lit them with gas lamps and burned candles. The soot and dust had to be cleaned away once the days lengthened, the ?res went out and the sun showed up the dirt. For many people this routine continued until at least the 1960s.

Homes lacked the marvelous gadgets we have today. A whistling kettle was considered a great novelty! Carpets were brushed or beaten, driving up clouds of dust. Laundry was done in the sink and put through the wringer to squeeze out the water. Dishes were always washed by hand, and in the days before fridges and freezers shopping was a far more frequent chore.

When you consider how time-consuming running a home was in the last century, you really have no excuse not to be able to keep up now, even though both men and women tend to go out to work. Haven't things changed! There are many labor-saving devices our predecessors would have given their right arm for. We have vacuum cleaners, washing machines, tumble dryers, dishwashers, enormous fridges and freezers, microwaves, duvets (rarely sheets and blankets) and a dazzling array of products designed to tackle every task.

A tidy home is a clean home

Cleaning will always be easier if you are tidy and put things back each time they are used. Become a gatherer! Pick things up as you go, returning them to their proper place. Keep a little basket by the stairs—don't make unnecessary trips. Get into the habit of scooping things up before bedtime, collecting mugs, glasses, ashtrays, papers and mail; give the cushions a bang and everything will be shipshape for the morning. Who wants to be confronted at the start of a new day with yesterday's ?lth?

We're all hoarders to some degree. If your cupboards and drawers are so crammed full that you are short of storage space and cannot ?nd a permanent home for things, then you need to clear out and dispose of the items you no longer need or use. Your home will be much more comfortable and run more ef?ciently if things are put away. You will also have the added advantage of being able to locate what you need quickly, without the frustration of searching through endless piles of things. Once clutter is removed you can keep the surfaces clean and healthy.

Do a little bit each day

Some people cannot relax until every last chore is done; others just can't seem to get started, or don't know where to start. We're making a lot of excuses for ourselves about why we don't have time around the home.

Tidy as you go: a quick flick here and there with a duster—don't let it build up, dear—you make life easy or you make life hard, and we know which we prefer. Keep on top of the laundry, restore order in the kitchen after every meal, a quick run around the center of each room with the vacuum, and you'll be keeping a lovely, happy home. If others don't or won't help, don't scream and give yourself a headache—if they want to wallow in their own dirt, let them get on with it!

DAILY ROUTINES

If you try to do the following little tasks every day they will soon become second nature, and you won't even notice you're doing them. A couple of minutes here, a few seconds there, and you'll soon wonder what all the fuss was about.

Pull back the bedcovers to air while you shower and have breakfast. Open the window: this will reduce humidity and limit the number of dust mites.

Keep the kitchen clean and tidy. Wash up after each meal, and keep surfaces clean.

Change dishcloths and tea towels daily.

Vacuum or sweep the kitchen floor.

Keep sinks clean and hand towels fresh.

Keep toilets scrupulously clean.

Return things to their place so clutter doesn't build up.

Consider nominating days for laundry: e.g., Saturday for bedlinen, Monday for towels, Tuesday for coloreds, Thursday for whites. Hang laundry up to dry to make ironing easier.

WEEKLY ROUTINES

Of course there are some jobs you don't need to do every day. That doesn't mean you have to save them all up for a mammoth cleaning blitz at the end of the week. Oh please, get a system or you'll be in one heck of a mess. Do a couple of these things along with your daily routine and you'll never spend a whole day cleaning again.

Change the bedlinen (twice weekly is best in hot weather).

Change bath and shower towels two or three times weekly.

Vacuum carpets and floors.

Wash or mop all hard floors.

Dust the surfaces (if you're pressed for time, dusting will always wait—dust doesn't smell but toilets always do).

Wipe ?ngerprints from door handles and light switches (do this as you go around; it only takes a second and keeps germs away).

Thoroughly clean the bathroom: toilet, sink, shower, tiles, toothbrush holders, mirrors and floor.

Attend to the areas of the kitchen not covered by daily routines: wipe cupboard doors, splashbacks, oven, microwave, fridge, windows and rinse and disinfect trash cans.

Iron the laundry.

Monthly routines

Now don't go thinking we've gone all obsessive here, dear. This isn't about getting down the calendar and marking off great lists of tasks on the ?rst of each month. These are just the little extra things. It would be daft to do them every day or week, why waste your time? But every now and again your home will be cleaner if you tick off some of these extra things. Do you know what I do? I love watching television, but some nights I have a look and I think, "Well, there's nothing on." So I think to myself, "I'll just go and clean a room I haven't done for a while." Try it—come the end of the evening you feel so good that you haven't wasted your time watching a load of rubbish—and you've got a lovely clean room.

Clean windows, inside and out.

Launder under bedding, mattress covers and pillow protectors.

Turn mattresses (at least every other month).

Sort through cupboards and drawers regularly, discarding things you don't use.

Vacuum areas you normally neglect—under the bed, curtains, cobwebs in high corners.

Clean lamps and lampshades.

Polish wooden furniture.

Polish mirrors, including frames.

Wax floors after washing them.

Thoroughly clean inside the oven.

Dust blinds, door tops and picture rails.

Spring-cleaning (and autumn-cleaning)

You know, it sounds old-fashioned, but many people still spring-clean. In the old days they used to wash everything—yes, everything. Empty all the drawers and cupboards, pull out all the furniture, take down all the curtains, wash all the floors and rugs and scrub down the paintwork. Perhaps people today don't go to quite these lengths, but as the days lengthen, the windows get opened and the sun streams in we start to see the dust and dirt that has been hidden all winter. So give your home a treat. If a home is clean, slavery is over!

Wash blankets, duvets and pillows.

Change seasonal clothing in wardrobes and pack away clothes not in use.

Items you have not worn for over two years should be parted with.

Clean the walls, ceilings and floors.

Vacuum books, CDs, videos and shelves.

Clean underneath heavy furniture and electrical appliances.

Shampoo carpets and upholstery.

Launder or dry-clean curtains and bedcovers.

Discard items or appliances that are broken or no longer in use.

Inspect garages, basements, lofts and sheds. Spring is a marvelous time to freshen up these areas for the summer—after all, that's where the junk tends to get left, now isn't it?

Deep-cleaning—if you are

starting from scratch

If you do it little and often your home will never get out of control. However, there are times when you may ?nd yourself inheriting someone else's dirt. You might move into rented accommodation, or buy a new home where the cleanliness leaves a lot to be desired. You might need to help an elderly or unwell relative restore order when through no fault of their own things have slipped out of control. Here is an action plan to launch an assault on the scale we needed for How Clean Is Your House?

Start at the top of the house and work down.

Clean top to bottom of every room.

Bedrooms, studies and reception rooms ?rst.

Ceilings, walls, curtains, floors. Pull out all furniture and appliances and clean behind and underneath.

Wet ?rst—washing paintwork, windows, laundering, shampooing.

Dry next—dusting, polishing, waxing.

Vacuuming last—removing all traces of dust and debris.

These rooms last—bathrooms, kitchens and utility rooms. As you clean through the home you will be replenishing your buckets, cloths, dusters and mops as you remove the dirt from elsewhere, so save these rooms until last.

Finally—attack the porch, hallway, garage, cellar, loft.

Treat yourself, dear!

When all the cleaning is done I like nothing better than to sit down with a long cool glass of sparkling water. You're usually pretty warm, so it's nice to have that cold drink. I ?nd it very refreshing. Then I think to myself, well, that's all done, I'll have a bit of time off now. I'll sit and rub my kitty Daisy's tummy and she's very happy, and so am I.

Excerped with permission of Penguin Group (USA).